Preface ........................................................ ix
Foreword ....................................................... xi
Acknowledgements ............................................. xiii
List of Contributors ........................................... xv
PART ONE General Concepts and Cosmetic Legislation ............. 1
1 General Concepts and Cosmetic Legislation .................... 3
1.1 General Concepts. Current Legislation on Cosmetics in
Different Countries
L. Gagliardi and S. Dorato .............................. 3
1.2 Quality Control of Cosmetic Products. Specific
Legislation on Ingredients
B. Fernández de Córdova Manent and E.F. González
Abellán ................................................ 29
PART TWO Main Ingredients in Cosmetics. Analytical Methods
for Monitoring and Quality Control ............................. 43
2 General Overview on Analytical Methods for Cosmetic
Ingredients ................................................. 45
2.1 General Review of Official Methods of Analysis for
Cosmetics in Different Countries
L. Gagliardi, D. De Orsi and S. Dorato ................. 45
2.2 General Review of Published Analytical Methods for
Cosmetics
A. Salvador, J.G. March, M.T. Vidal, A. Chisvert and
A. Balaguer ............................................ 72
3 UV Filters in Sunscreens and other Cosmetics. Tanning and
Whitening Agents. Analytical Methods ........................ 83
3.1 UV Filters in Sunscreens and other Cosmetics.
Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods
A. Chisvert and A. Salvador ............................ 83
3.2 Monitoring and Quality Control of Sunscreen
Photostability
S. Scalia ............................................. 121
3.3 Tanning and Whitening Agents in Cosmetics.
Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods
A. Chisvert, A. Balaguer and A. Salvador .............. 128
4 Colouring Agents in Decorative and other Cosmetics.
Analytical Methods ......................................... 141
4.1 Colouring Agents in Cosmetic Products (Excluding
Hair Dyes): Types of Decorative Cosmetic Products
B. Valet, M. Mayor, F. Fitoussi, R. Capellier,
M. Dormoy and J. Ginestar ............................. 141
4.2 Colouring Agents in Cosmetic Products (Excluding
Hair Dyes): Regulatory Aspects and Analytical
Methods
A. Weisz, S.R. Milstein and A.L. Scher ................ 153
4.3 Hair Dyes in Cosmetics. Regulatory Aspects and
Analytical Methods
A. Chisvert, A. Cháfer and A. Salvador ................ 190
5 Preservatives in Cosmetics. Analytical Methods ............. 211
5.1 Preservatives in Cosmetics. Regulatory Aspects and
Analytical Methods
S. Polati, F. Gosetti and M.C. Gennaro ................ 211
6 Perfumes in Cosmetics. Analytical Methods .................. 243
6.1 Perfumes in Cosmetics. Regulatory Aspects and
Analytical Methods for Fragrance Ingredients and
other Related Chemicals in Cosmetics
A. Chisvert and A. Salvador ........................... 243
6.2 Analytical Methods to Determine Potentially
Allergenic Fragrance-Related Substances in Cosmetics
A. Chaintreau ......................................... 257
6.3 Electronic Noses in Perfume Analysis
R.M. Negri ............................................ 276
7 Surfactants in Cosmetics. Analytical Methods ............... 291
7.1 Determination of Surfactants in Cosmetics
M.C. Prieto-Blanco, P. López-Mahía, S. Muniategui-
Lorenzo and D. Prada Rodríguez ........................ 291
8 Actives for Skin-Care Products. Actives for Personal
Hygiene and Other Toiletry Products. Actives with
Specific Claims. Analytical Methods ........................ 323
8.1 General Skin-Care Products
P. Cuadrado ........................................... 324
8.2 Personal Hygiene. Other Toiletry Products (Excluding
those Mentioned in Previous Chapters)
M.T. Vidal Gandía, Z. León González, M. López
Nogueroles and G.A. March Roselló ..................... 328
8.3 Actives for Hair Products (Excluding Hair Dyes)
A. Salvador, A. Chisvert and C. del Canizo Gómez ...... 332
8.4 Actives for Dental Whitening
A. Torréns-Tomás and P. Montoro-Martínez .............. 340
8.5 Botanical Extracts
A. Benaiges and P. Guillén ............................ 345
8.6 Vitamins
C. Casas .............................................. 364
8.7 Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetics .................... 380
I. Vivó-Sesé, M.D. Pla
8.8 Analytical Methods for Actives used in General and
Specific Skin-Care, Personal Hygiene and other
Toiletry Products (Excluding those Mentioned in
Previous Chapters)
A. Balaguer, A. Chisvert, J. Sisternes, J.G. March
and A. Salvador ....................................... 390
PART THREE Safety and Efficacy Evaluation .................... 421
9 Alternative Methods to Animal Testing for Cosmetic
Products Evaluation ........................................ 423
9.1 Safety Evaluation
M. Herráez Dominguez and O. Diez Sales ................ 423
9.2 Efficacy Evaluation
A. del Pozo and A. Viscasillas ........................ 462
Subject Index ................................................. 475
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