Preface & Acknowledgements ..................................... ix
Introduction Heaven and Hell ................................... xi
Landscape of Extremes (xii); The Humdrum and the
Bizarre (xvi)
Chapter One
Cradle of Civilizations ......................................... 1
Bronze-Age Cultures (4); The Scyths (5); Turkic and Mongol
States (6); The Khanate of Sibir (8); Indigenes before
Russian Colonization (10); Yermak's Conquest (14)
Chapter Two
A Frontier Beyond: The Urals and Yekaterinburg ................. 21
Travel on the Sibirsky Trakt (24); Beyond the Watershed of
Imagination (27); Stroganovs, Demidovs and the Industrial
Heritage of Nevyansk (29); Yekaterinburg: Minerals and
Mining (32); A Walk through Yekaterinburg (36); The
Romanov Murders and Church-on-Blood (42); From
Voznesenskaya Gorka to the Opera (47)
Chapter Three
Tyumen: Dallas in Siberia ...................................... 51
From Fortress to Metropolis (54); Holy Trinity Monastery:
Missionaries and Indigenous Colonization (58); Towards
Historical Square and Central Square (63); Rasputin: The
Mystic from Pokrovskoe (69)
Chapter Four
Tobolsk: From "Sodom in the Taiga" to a Cultural Heartland ..... 73
The Kremlin Complex (77); Banishing the Bell (79);
Siberian Administration (82); Outside the Kremlin:
Decembrists and Dostoevsky (83); The Lower Town (86);
Abalak and the "Pious Work" (90)
Chapter Five
To the Frozen Ocean and Stalin's Railway of Death .............. 93
Khanty-Mansiysk: Boom Town (96); Berezovo and
Salekhard (97); The Railway of Death (100)
Chapter Six
Omsk and the Baraba Steppe .................................... 103
Revolution and Civil War (107); Exploring Omsk (111); The
Baraba Steppe (120)
Chapter Seven
Over the Top: The Northern Sea Route 125 Exploring Siberia's
Seas (127); The Second Kamchatka Expedition (130);
Nordenskjöld's Expeditions (133); Joseph Wiggins and Helen
Peel (135); Nansen and the Drifters (140)
Chapter Eight
Novosibirsk and the Trans-Siberian Railway .................... 145
Building Russia's Railway (149); Novosibirsk: Bridge
over the Ob (154); Around Novosibirsk (157); The
Mammoths of Akademgorodok (163)
Chapter Nine
The Altai Region and Republic Mystics, Mountains and Nomads ... 167
Barnaul and the Altai (170); Industrial Heritage (173);
Prospekt Lenina: Urban Archaeology (177); The Altai
Republic: Spiritual Landscape (179); Altai
Nationalism (180); The Katun River and Mount Belukha (183)
Chapter Ten
Yenisey River: From Steppes to the Frozen Tundra .............. 189
Khoomei: Throat Singing and Cultural Identity (191); The
Tuvans and their Burial Complexes (195); The Yenisey
River North (199); Khakassia and the Steppe
Cultures (202); Krasnoyarsk (206); North to the
Arctic (215); Yeniseysk: Churches and Fairs (218);
Turukhansk: Saints and Exiles (222)
Chapter Eleven
IKUTSK: The "Paris of Siberia" ................................ 227
Foreign Visitors (231); Central Irkutsk: Monuments,
Museums and Monasteries (235); Remembering the
Decembrists (243)
Chapter Twelve
Aake Baikal: Siberia's Sacred Sea ............................. 245
The World's Largest Freshwater Lake (246); Irkutsk to
Listvyanka (250); The Circumbaikal Railway (256); Olkhon
Island: Where Spirits and Cultures Meet (260)
Chapter Thirteen
The Archipelago of Exile: Magadan ............................. 265
House of the Dead (268); The Gulags (272): Company
Town (277) Further Reading ................................. 281
Index of Historical & Literary Names .......................... 289
Index of Places & Landmarks ................................... 293
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